Since our journey began, it's been operating on a plan as you go basis. We've had a general idea of places to go and things to do, but have mostly relied on the universe to direct us to the right places at the right time. India has been no exception. Of course, there is a slight level of discomfort in the unknown. We knew we wanted to attend an Iyengar yoga school in northern India, recommended by our yoga teacher in Peru, but without a visa or a plane ticket we couldn't exactly reserve a space. Yog-Ganga's website recommends students apply for a course four months in advance. We sent our application in with 7 days to spare. Luckily, in an otherwise full year-round school, there was space for us in the next session.
Within a few days of receiving our visas in Dublin, we found ourselves in the foothills of the Himalayas in the beautiful quaint town of Rajpur, state of Uttarakhand. As our yoga teachers Rajiv and Swati say, we had a featherbed landing in India. Our prearranged lodging was in a sizable home with a marble staircase and massive garden, our dinners were cooked for us, and our twice a day yoga classes were focused and challenging. As we visited with our fellow classmates after orientation, we discovered many of them visit the school annually for several sessions in a row. By the end of our first day at Yog-Ganga, we decided to apply for the following course. The second three week session had an ayurveda focus, something we didn't want to miss out on.
Within a few days of receiving our visas in Dublin, we found ourselves in the foothills of the Himalayas in the beautiful quaint town of Rajpur, state of Uttarakhand. As our yoga teachers Rajiv and Swati say, we had a featherbed landing in India. Our prearranged lodging was in a sizable home with a marble staircase and massive garden, our dinners were cooked for us, and our twice a day yoga classes were focused and challenging. As we visited with our fellow classmates after orientation, we discovered many of them visit the school annually for several sessions in a row. By the end of our first day at Yog-Ganga, we decided to apply for the following course. The second three week session had an ayurveda focus, something we didn't want to miss out on.
Our home during the first course. Nice!
Outside the yoga school
Outside the studio
Inside the studio
They say “everything's bigger in Texas”. A similar adage can be said for this country : “everything's more intense in India”. To walk down the street is to experience extra sensory overload in many ways. On the ten minute walk home a few days into our first course, we saw a dog's ear falling off while he licked up his dripping blood from the ground, a large colorful dancing wedding procession in the middle of the street, then a preteen girl carrying a dozen bricks on her head to a construction site. It is one thing to witness these events, process them or put them in one's journal and then move on. It is another thing to stay in a place long enough to see the dog's ear heal (somewhat), and the young married girl carry bricks in the same sari for days on end. Staying somewhere makes it a bit more real, for better or worse. Perhaps staying somewhere for a very long time, like home, creates an opposite effect. We are so accustomed to our surroundings that we stop noticing things. It does seem, however, that there's simply more to look at in India.
There is no trash collection in Rajpur, but dozens of well maintained temples. Rubbish is either dumped off the sides of hills or burned. The free range cows munch on sidewalk garbage, as do monkeys and dogs. It is interesting to think that in an American city, we create much more trash, but it is neatly collected and hidden away in a landfill. Seeing the trash created due to higher consumerism makes us more sensitive to it. The trouble here is that prepackaged goods are more modern, so instead of taking your cooking oil can to the store to get it refilled, people buy plastic bottles of oil. Thus, the problem unfolds. Swati, our yoga teacher is trying to clean up Rajpur and to get trash collection going but it seems it is an uphill battle. It is probably very hard to convince people to reduce and reuse when it is opposite to the perception of progress and attainment/status.
On a lighter note, our classmates helped us celebrate Josh's birthday on October 4th by going out for breakfast after class and hiking to a nearby waterfall. Well, the hike had to be delayed for a couple days due to rain, but it was a wonderful trip nonetheless. Thanks to all our friends and family who sent warm birthday wishes via email and Skype.
There is no trash collection in Rajpur, but dozens of well maintained temples. Rubbish is either dumped off the sides of hills or burned. The free range cows munch on sidewalk garbage, as do monkeys and dogs. It is interesting to think that in an American city, we create much more trash, but it is neatly collected and hidden away in a landfill. Seeing the trash created due to higher consumerism makes us more sensitive to it. The trouble here is that prepackaged goods are more modern, so instead of taking your cooking oil can to the store to get it refilled, people buy plastic bottles of oil. Thus, the problem unfolds. Swati, our yoga teacher is trying to clean up Rajpur and to get trash collection going but it seems it is an uphill battle. It is probably very hard to convince people to reduce and reuse when it is opposite to the perception of progress and attainment/status.
On a lighter note, our classmates helped us celebrate Josh's birthday on October 4th by going out for breakfast after class and hiking to a nearby waterfall. Well, the hike had to be delayed for a couple days due to rain, but it was a wonderful trip nonetheless. Thanks to all our friends and family who sent warm birthday wishes via email and Skype.
Nice view on the way to the waterfall
The waterfall
Happy Birthday Josh!
We've had several chances to enjoy and participate in local cultural celebrations as well. There was a grand celebration for Patanjali's birthday (the father of yoga) at our school a week after Josh's birthday. Our class helped decorate the studio by creating sand paintings (called rangolis) and making garlands of mango leaves and marigold flowers. There was a musical performer and a wonderful feast for students and local families.
Getting ready for the celebration
Josh working on the tiger rangoli. After five hours of concentration (and some assistance) his masterpiece was finished!
Our class completed three rangolis
Our tallented classmate Rick snapped the following three pictures:
We used a lot of marigolds!
In the week between yoga courses, we were invited to Mussorie (funny enough, pronounced much like our home state) to celebrate Diwali, the biggest Hindu holiday of the year. The mountain top town has long been a honeymoon destination for Indians, and the views are spectacular. We sat in on a long puja (ceremony with readings of Hindu scriptures, offerings and prayers) and again enjoyed a wonderful feast. We also watched our yoga teacher's faces light up (literally and figuratively) as they lit small fireworks in the yard and watched bigger firework displays below. Situated high up in the hills, we were able to see the fireworks in all of the Derhadun valley below. It was a magical sight. There were no official city fireworks displays, but rather thousands of individuals all over the valley setting off their own fireworks. It was the first time we had watched fireworks from above the explosion line.
The sun sets behind a "moon line" during the winter months. One of only two places on earth (and Sweeden) where a false horizon is visible.
We also made two overnight trips to nearby Rishikesh, a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus. The Ganga river runs through the city, and there are many ashrams and yoga schools to visit. We especially enjoyed shopping for Indian printed English books. Our ten kilo shipment home consists mainly of ayurveda books that cost three times more in the states.
We also made two overnight trips to nearby Rishikesh, a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus. The Ganga river runs through the city, and there are many ashrams and yoga schools to visit. We especially enjoyed shopping for Indian printed English books. Our ten kilo shipment home consists mainly of ayurveda books that cost three times more in the states.
The Ganga is a beautiful shade of blue
Six weeks of Iyengar yoga classes have almost passed; we feel very fortunate to have found Yog-Ganga. We recommend the school to anyone who wishes to deepen his or her yoga practice, even if you haven't studied Iyengar before. The only danger is, Rajiv and Swati might just turn you into an Iyengar practitioner!
Our classmate performing a traditional Indian dance for our class
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