Iquitos and the 48th kilometer

Whenever Josh and I fly, he usually tries to get an emergency exit row seat assignment. As a short person, I never knew this row was highly sought after for its additional leg room. On our flight to Iquitos, we were able to secure the seats and this is how we met Aaron. Standing at six foot four, he became a key component of our experience in the Amazon river basin. We knew we wanted to visit an Amazonian shaman during our stay in Iquitos, but didn't have any concrete plans. Through talking to Aaron, we discovered he was going to visit a very well known shaman and stay on his land for a week. After retrieving our luggage from the lone baggage claim, we hopped into a taxi with Aaron and Carlos, the shaman's apprentice.
Instead of staying in Iquitos and sorting out which shaman would be the best to work with, we were relieved to have our week sorted out so easily. The taxi bounded out of town on the only road in Iquitos. We were headed to the 48th kilometer, and into the jungle. When it's not raining, the walk from the road to the center takes a half hour. There is no real road to the center, but rather a muddy path with a series of small wooden planks and bridges to traverse the really wet marshes and creeks. Sun high in the sky, carrying our packs and trying our best to balance, we arrived at the center hungry and drenched in sweat.
While waiting for our cabins to be set up we were taken to the Maloca to rest and visit. An octagon shaped wooden building centered over the river running through the property, this is where evening ceremonies are held and everyone gathers during the day. Beautiful paintings adorned the room and two altars - one for the shaman and a smaller one for his apprentice - were the only furniture.
The walls were simple and screened in to keep most of the insects and animals. After a short stay in the Maloca we were led to our cabin. The cabin was also a simple wooden structure with screens and woven palm leave roofing. Our cabin had two beds set up with mosquito nets and also two hammocks. After a bit of unpacking, Alcie, the Shaman's father and center's always smiling and always working servant brought us a simple meal of unseasoned rice with lentils and vegetable soup. We didn't realize it at the time, but this was one of our most fancy meals during our week stay. The next morning we started on the "strong diet" of farina (dried ground up yucca) and ajos sacha (a garlic flavored tea). The strong diet is designed to cleanse the body and allow our energy to be spent healing the mind and body rather than digesting complex foods.

The slow pace of the week gave us time to reflect and meditate. We did make a trip into town one day, and just as others had told us, Iquitos is like another world. Motor cars speed by with no marked lanes to contain them, the herbal market had hundreds of foreign remedies and wise women pedaling their wares. Josh's belt had become too big, so we had a hole punched in it so it could be tighter. Things are just simpler in the jungle, it seems. It was nice to return to the center, where the only noises were birds and running water. As the week drew to a close, we felt stronger than when we arrived, and we felt a connection with the jungle and the center. Josh and I would like to return some day. We had to push on to Cusco though, another chapter of our journey beginning.

Our week in Lima

Our intention upon arrival in Lima was to take a week to get acclimated, see some sights, and soak in the sun. We accomplished these things, some on purpose, others by chance. Since the weather has been so warm, we went to the beach and shaved Josh's head. He then took a swim with all the Limenos (people from Lima) and the copious amounts of floating debris and funny looking foam riding the waves. Later, we had the good fortune of meeting Kitty, a woman visiting from Trujillo. The second largest city of Peru is an eight hour bus ride up the coast, with a population just shy of a million.
Kitty invited us to her son Ricardo's Marinera dance performance later that night. We didn't know what Marinera was, nor that we would be on an adventure with her until four in the morning, but we gladly accepted. The performance was an hour and a half south in a coastal shopping mecca everyone compares to Las Vegas, NV. Despite the absence of casinos, tall buildings, and dazzling lights, it was just like Las Vegas. We were relieved to arrive before dark after a three shady buses and a taxi ride.

The performance did not start until ten, but it was well worth the wait. Marinera is beautiful, complex and flirtatious. A live band provided the music and the dancers were of all ages (from about 6 years old - as in the video - up to perhaps 60 years old). Ricardo showcased a new variation of Marinara dancing - 5 males taking turns soloing accompanied by a lone drum. The grand finale included all the dancers, lots of confetti and ginormous puppets.

We spent the following day with Kitty and her son, Ricardo, wandering the streets of Lima. Our discussions were half in Spanish, half in English, but always interesting. The evening ended playing frisbee and devil sticks with all the little kids in the park near our hostel.
I recall someone making me promise we would post not only the cool things that are happening on the blog, but also the gritty icky things too. Hmmm. Well, since we arrived in Lima I've broken out with the worst case of fever blisters I've ever had. I thought it was due to the yellow fever vaccine suppressing my immune system, but am not sure. The entire circumference of my lips is covered, the condition has hindered my ability to smile, talk and eat for a week now. Josh has also been fighting off his first bout of traveler's diarrhea the past few days. Thankfully, we have enough calcium bentonite clay to cover our GI tract for months to come. Both annoyances will be gone soon though, and we are excited to fly to Iquitos tomorrow. We will stay in this Amazon river basin city for a week.
Last fun tidbit before we go to yoga class :
This little invention is the coolest! No more slimy soap dishes! No more soap slipping into the sink! I absolutely love this thing!!!

Back Up

After passing out our new Yogis Without Borders business cards to people we've just met, I feel the need to elaborate some of the finer details of our trip:
Beyond our mission statement, why are we doing this?
1. Presently, there are few professions or corporations, and even fewer people our age in them, that support decades of commitment. Although we have friends who have had the same job for over five years, this is by far the minority. Unlike generations passed, taking a break from a profession or switching professions is pretty common these days. So the idea of leaving a corporate job to travel around the world to study yoga seemed like a good one.
2. The economy is struggling, people are getting laid off and taking pay cuts left and right. What better time to duck out and get away from the negativity and media fear machine that seems to be possessing the air waves? Besides, we are tired of waiting for an administration or elected official to solve the world's problems. Real lasting change will have to come from the bottom up and yoga is the most grass roots unifying practice we can think of.
3. We're in love! Who could possibly turn down a year long honeymoon?
Sheer will aside, how are you doing this?
1. No, we are not spending trust fund money nor did we win the lottery. We saved money for years to do this, and went through extensive preparations to make it happen. Two additional factors are making the trip possible : Pam (Josh's mom) and autopay. Thanks Pam!
2. Manifesting the life you want to see is pretty fun. It takes practice, but once you get the hang of it, there's nothing out there that's out of reach.
What did you bring with you?
- steripen (we can drink tap water thanks to this compact device)
- a few pairs of clothes for warm weather, a few for cold
- some books about yoga, a guide book and Spanish dictionary
- yoga mats (ultralite, given to us from LuLuLemon)
- skeletool (like a leatherman but light weight)
- duct tape, superglue, sewing kit
- collapsible bucket to wash clothes
- dr bronner's soap
- our little computer (Asus 901 Eee Pc)
- fiddle and harmonica
- flip flops, street shoes (I choose Keen's, Josh has Earthshoes)
- camera
- forks, spoons, cups for each of us
- calcium bentonite clay, amongst other natural remedies in the first aid kit
- sleeping bags, eye mask and ear plugs
- a good open mind and attitude

Look out world, here we come!

Well, Josh and I had been traveling the US since January 28th, and with each destination we were met with hugs, smiles and warm wishes. We certainly won't forget all the awesome energy and support we accumulated over the past five weeks!
We will cherish the memories of cozy evenings in Fort Collins, putting on the green in Sun City Grand, impossibly ridiculous yoga classes and hikes in LA, dolphin watching in Santa Cruz, and reeking of garlic in San Fran as we traverse the globe. Thanks to all who gave us beds and kitchens!
We are now safe and sore in Lima, Miraflores to be specific. Tonight was our first Spanish taught yoga class, and after not practicing since before our ten day Viapassana meditation retreat (more on this soon), it was quite challenging! We met a few other yogis in class, and plan to return tomorrow. Our hostel has a good WiFi connection, so Skype is absolutely encouraged!
namaste